This is story about our travel on the North Coast of Vancouver Island last summer. North of the Island is always fascinating me, and after my short visit to Cape Scott Park the desire to walk along the North Shore became unendurable.
And finally in early morning of July 2 we packed the car, catch the ferry to Nanaimo and driven to the Port Hardy, from where the reserved boat should take us the the start of our hike.
At 6 pm we were in Pot Hardy and tried to find hotel. We didn’t realized that in the summer Port Hardy is like sea resort with tourist crowds. Both hotel near the dock from where our boat leaves completely full, and it was Tuesday!
Fortunately, the hotel where we stayed in April had vacation (but price are dramatically higher then April’s one), and it is only 15 minutes walk to dock. Information about motel availability is not traditional. What you usually see on front of north-American motel? Vacancy (or, if you are not lucky, no vacancy). But this motel joy us by lights Open, insinuating that is not often open at al.
North Coast Trail is (according elegant expression on park official site) new 43-km extension of 24-km Cape Scott Trail, which exists from ancient times of first settlers and light house building, that is mean beginning of XX century. North Coast Trail was open only in 2008, specially for maniacs who like to hike knee-deep in swamps, climb on rock and be permanently wet. The trail is linear, from side of Cape Scott Trail it can be reached by car, but from other side only by sea-plane of boat. We economically choose boat, although 90 CAD per person for 1 hour trip is not chip price by my opinion. And we were lucky, because same boat was used by two other couple of maniacs, otherwise we should pay 360 CAD (minimal price for boat).
Park scheme with our nights places:
Next morning we sailed to Shushartie Bay. Universe joyed us by sun, serene ocean and dolphins.
Arrived, Cape Scott Provincial Park:
Shushartie Bay
Our boat
leaving us
There are a lot of old irons on the seaside.
Plenty pf black bears were promised to us in Shushartie. Of course, we didn’t see anyone. Well, wildlife in those palaces did three things: it left traces, craped and died. We saw myriad of traces, heaps of poo and carcasses. Wildlife itself preferred not to show up.
First part of trail from Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek goes exclusively through the forest. Well, it is very special fores, very wet and swampy, actually it is good swamp covered by forest. Sometimes you can meet gagways on the trail.
You can rest on them.
But its happens very seldom, usually trail looks like this:
You immerse into the trail at least knee deep.
Sometimes you can meet set “make your own road”.
It is about 8 km from Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek, and it took 8 hours. In trail description the expected hiking time 8-10 h, and we was puzzled how it is possible, well, now we know.
All swamp meadows are covered by sun-dew.
Finally not shy wildlife! Western toad aka Anaxyrus boreas.
On Skinner Creek there are creek itself, ocean, huge sandy and gravel beach, permanent strong wind and nobody…Good place to stay. Wolfs, bears and plenty of different birds were promised.
Well, plenty of seagulls traces.
And wolf’s ones also.
Here whole family of wolfs hunting for dear.
At least we so many sandy shrimps. They live in sandy beaches, make holes and jump very good.
Our first night was here.
Continue:
North Coast Trail — Day two
North Coast Trail — Day three
North Coast Trail — Day four
North Coast Trail — Day five
North Coast Trail — Day six and seven, the last one
